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Ecobob Cafe Last post Posts
The Ecobob Cafe is for people interested in eco living to socialise and to share ideas and information. 8030 Posts

Building design, construction and renovations Last post Posts
This forum is for topics relating to eco friendly building design, construction and renovations.
Yesterday, 2:52 PM
5103 Posts

Real estate and property development Last post Posts
Topics in this forum relate to sustainable real estate and sustainable property development. 275 Posts

World Environment Day Last post Posts
This forum is for discussions on World Environment Day. What are you, or your organisation, doing for World Environment Day? Do you know of any activities happening around the country for World Environment Day? 81 Posts


Latest Forum Posts


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1 posts
Posted Yesterday, 2:52 PM
We're planning to renovate our 70s kitchen. The kitchen renovation of cupboards, benches etc I would imagine not require any Council consents. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

However, we will be replacing 2 wooden windows with aluminium ones and the exterior of one wall will have the weatherboards replaced due to rot. Will these require consents?

3 posts
Posted Yesterday, 7:40 AM
sorry Kate .. i don't know where i got the Helen from .. maybe it was thinking of writing Hunny

3 posts
Posted Yesterday, 7:31 AM
Hi Helen you are correct in those tog rating. as a flooring company have been working on this for some time .. the dunlop product unfortunately was not the correct underlay for Alan, there is another one better than the Duralay that comes from Australia that i have been told is a .50 tog rating which looks identical to the Duralay.

it is important to have the least amount of resistance for the heat to transfer from the floor into the room.

It was always said over the years that under floor heating was an expensive way of heating a floor as they never had good insulation in the floor around it and a lot of the heat was lost up between the wall cavity's but they have certainly improved the insulation methods to make it more efficient.

i have experienced the water flow system here and more commonly used in Europe but they do live on more hard floors.

i was always taught that underfloor heating was a source to take the chill from the air to make it easier to heat the home not as a main heat source to heat the whole home .. maybe its changed .. or is it just an over sell.

2 posts
Posted 28 Jan 15 10:13 PM
Hi Alan, Thanks for your reply. After spending most of the day on this issue, I have come up with the following information:
Officially recommended max tog is 1.5 for carpet+underlay over underfloor heating, however up to 2.5 seems to be generally accepted.
Dunlop Excellay Seven has a tog rating of 2.0
Padco underlay (Turangi) makes underlay (Silverleaf) which they advertise as suitable for underfloor heating, but it doesn't yet have a tog rating so impossible to compare it with others.
Home Insulation Christchurch has recently imported Duralay underlay from the UK. This is specifically designed for use with underfloor heating, tog is 0.75. They plan to market it throughout NZ in the near future, so that will be great for those planning to use UF heating.
As yet I don't have a tog value for the carpet we have our eye on - waiting for the salesperson to get back to me. I am surprised at how little the carpet retailers know about this subject and how unwilling they are to learn/assist. Many can't seem to grasp the concept of wanting less thermal insulation in order to gain efficiency in UF heating. Guess I could just tile the whole house, but carpet is just so comfy! ;-)

Kate

9 posts
Posted 28 Jan 15 6:57 PM
Hi
I'm not the person you asked but recently bought the following underlay for carpet in bedrooms over underfloor. Pro tread excellay underlay 7mm from Dunlop, 120kg per m cubed. It is supposedly good for underfloor. Best of luck.

2 posts
Posted 28 Jan 15 7:42 AM
Hi Chrisa, would you please let us know where to find these underlays? i.e. brand name or supplier? Thanks in advance....

2 posts
Posted 28 Jan 15 5:36 AM
Thank you for replying ... in the end he has started a course in Ottawa, Canada which looks to be the equivalent of what Aoraki offers. Good to know this exists, but still looking for real eco-type courses too on natural house building - straw bale etc.

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 10:22 PM
my suggestion would be linseed or tung oil soak it really soak it & mop up excess after 1/2 hr

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 10:18 PM
Aoraki polytech have such a course or courses

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 10:12 PM
cement plaster !! good luck! but as that is what you have then so be it but whatever you do dont try to seal it it needs to breath ie be vapour permeable for a good undestanding of the why's read 'serious strawbale' they are adamant that the exterior should be more vapour permeable than the interior the cheapest & possibly best finish would be lime wash 2 or 3 coats it can be pigmented, & will probabally help fill any cracks that develop, or if you rally want a paint 'porters paint' is vapour pemeable

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 9:58 PM
the little doesnt matter can be sanded later if excessive but to get no more gaps (OR WHATEVER BRAND) to really stick if you slightly push the nozzle ie 75 -80 deg approx instead of drag it it will put more in gap & adhere better

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 9:53 PM
the walls typically account for about 20% of building costs it depends on how frugal you are with all the rest to how cheap you can go

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 9:47 PM
not sure if its permitted or not but i believe rainbow farm has one, if you havnt allready read the book on rocket stove mass heaters by the cob cottage co

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 9:33 PM
contact 'sol design' & if you need some help with labour contact me

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 9:30 PM
natural house company have a range of good oils (INC OSMO) i have had a nice finish latley with rimu just using linseed oil & of course theres tung oil but they need sanding /dressing to look anything & a lot of sarking was from sap wood which is a little dull

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 9:25 PM
for glueing what? flour & water is probabally nontoxic

66 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 9:22 PM
if you havnt proceeded allready check out 'airfoam' i think they are now called heatsavers but if you google airfoam you will find lots of info basically they drill holes in the weather boards (or from inside if you prefer) & they pump it in there is a bit of missinformation about what it may do by people confusing it with urethane foams which it isnt

4 posts
Posted 27 Jan 15 6:52 AM
This really hits the nail on the head when it comes to Solar Heat.

If you have enough panels to provide decent heating in winter, what happens to the massive heat generated in summer?

Our final solution was to save the summer heat for use in winter. Best to check out the website for how and not easy for retrofits unless hydronic heat is present. dshh dot info will get you there.

Free Heat For Life is our bi-line.

Cheers

Ron Theaker CD
GM
Digital Solar Heat [dot com]

1 posts
Posted 24 Jan 15 12:15 AM
Why don’t you try to build using steel? One of my friends is working as <a href="http://www.metrosteel.com.au/about-us">Stainless steel suppliers</a> he always used to suggest me to build using steel product.

4 posts
Posted 23 Jan 15 8:21 PM
Thanks for the tip DrMatt. I did pick up some on my trip to Auckland but I will bear this tip in mind. You don't know who I would need to contact in Kingspan do you?

4 posts
Posted 23 Jan 15 7:59 PM
Late reply but may be useful for others: hot water cylinders rely on stratification (hot at the top, cold at the bottom). It sounds a lot like the wetback is plumbed up wrong and boiling in the pipe, therefore making the vent splutter, or just boiling the top of the cylinder.

4 posts
Posted 23 Jan 15 7:39 PM
Kingspan (head office is in chch) do projects such as cool stores and wineries all over the country using PIR SIP panels.. When they have leftovers or off cuts on a job the steel is usually stripped off the panel and recycled but the PIR is binned. You're sure to be able to track some down and recycle or repurpose it.

1 posts
Posted 22 Jan 15 12:00 AM
this is my first time on here , im very interested in this subject and have been for many years,
so I have been collecting gear as time went by,

im almost ready to put it all to work im hoping

today and tomorrow ill be mounting my solar panels ,and going to sort out my batteries

what I want to ask is ,I have to inverters can I run both off the same bank of batteries ?or do I need two banks of batteries and two lots of solar panels to charge them?

mike

3 posts
Posted 21 Jan 15 3:35 PM
We are in a similar situation with access and are considering dividing the concrete slab into smaller sections with cold joints so we can mix and pour in smaller batches ourselves. Will take more time to form, but I think it is feasible.

1 posts
Posted 21 Jan 15 11:05 AM
Not sure if you receive this message given the age of the post, but I was wondering if you could update the community with the current state of your Abode deck. I am looking at their product for a deck and was wondering how it looks/lasts ~2 years on. Thanks in advance

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