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How effective is Insulfluf v Batts

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How effective is Insulfluf v Batts

Posted 15 Oct '19 09:45 AM

I have a two storey house built in 2002 - It has Insulfluf in the ceiling.
Its still in good condition and nice and thick, but I cant find a lot of info on its effectiveness or insulation rating.
How good is it compared to say .. Pink Batts?

During the summer, the top floor of the house gets exceptionally hot. I have always wondered if maybe different ceiling insulation might help reduce the heat. However, noticeable heat seems to come from the ceiling through the downlight holes. So this could be at least part of the problem...

I am currently looking at doing some redecoration, and part of that is replacing the existing downlights with LEDs. I would be looking at downlights that can be covered so as to seal the holes in the celing. The problem is that I gather its a no-no to have them covered with Insulfluf as LEDs need to have an insulation that is rated safe to 90 degrees and I have no idea what Insulfluf is rated to.

I could:
1) Clean the Insulfluf away from the downlight areas and cover new LED downlights with Batts pads.
2) Remove the Insulfluf and re-install new insulation in the celing (Batts for arguments sake).
3) Do step 1 and also add Batts over the existing Insulfluf.

Obviously step 1 would be the most economical.
Anyone have any thoughts?

RE: How effective is Insulfluf v Batts

Posted 18 Nov '19 04:12 PM

My thoughts since no one else is willing in over a month. I'm biased with using pink batts for the simple reason that in the ceiling, it's proven and effective insulation. I can't stress the importance on the installation of the insulation; furthermore on previous owners that scuffle the insulation around doing lighting installs etc in the past.

Does your 2 story house have one of those HRV ducted systems in the roof space where there's a hole cut out for the room? A recent personal experience, we purchased a single story house that had 2 of these Sayr / HRV ducted units in the house - total of 7 outlets to cover all the rooms. When I went to change the filters, I was disgusted how poor the installation was done and suspect most of the insulation was scuffled around when the lighting guys installed the horrible recessed down lighting.

We live in a 2 story house where I overseen the build. Located in Chch on hot summer months it's nice and cool upstairs ; helps to have proper roof eaves. No HRV ducting, no holes in the ceiling for recessed pot lighting, just plain old fashion batten rose lights in the centre ceiling. End result is easy to heat and easy to keep cool when needed.

I would pick option #3 as to get 90C in the roof sounds too difficult to achieve. Eitherway, the roof space should be considered a 'cold zone' and if you're worried about off gasses from the Insulfluf product, it should not enter into the living space (unless you have one of those NZ HRV setups).

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